We woke to more glorious sunshine, so nothing for it. We head 40 km straight to the beach and find a perfect spot right outside the resort of Kusadasi. Feet up whilst Mac n Tosh play ball, what more is there to be said? #lifesabeach
Our Bumble parking spot at Kusadasi GPS position N037.736145, E027.246019
Yesterday we had beautiful blue skies!
Sunrise, grey skies and spots of rain. We are traumatised by the wet stuff until the penny drops that it is actually November. November? Oh yeah, guess we can’t complain. Over the pitter patter of rain and the barking of a pack of stray dogs we can hear the morning prayer. We are not quite sure where the mosque is but it is somewhere in the middle of the sitesi19. This area of coastline is dotted with purpose built holiday homes, apartments and villas. Quite often a large construction site will divide the land in to smaller sections and give each section a ‘site’ name or number. Having no town or village name the location is often referred to as the Sitesi number, so our parking spot is actually Sitesi19, which is on the outskirts of Kusadasi.
We drive through the coastal resort, which is still teaming with tourists. Cafes are open, offering the obligatory tea and full English to wandering souls. Bars are taking advantage of the rain and opening up early, offering raki and karaoke to the hard core. And somewhere isn the middle are the hardened sun worshipers loitering under a beach brolly waiting for just one sunbeam. On the headland we spot the hospital and drive over. My injections are due, so I pop inside and hope for the best. An hour later, I emerge from the modern complex fully jabbed and ready to roll.
Craig’s managed to sort a rough plan for the next 10 days and without further ado, we head over to Selçuk. The small, farming town of Selçuk has less than 30,000 citizens but is one of Turkey’s most significant areas for history and culture. Selçuk is famous for its crop of peaches, however, its main attraction is the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Along with the Byzantine Church of St John, the Isa Bey Mosque and the Grand Castle. We find Vin a cracking parking spot right at the side of the castle and then off we go to explore.
Our Bumble parking spot at Selçuk GPS position N037.953254, E027.368546
The magnificent Basilica of St John, which is said to be the site of the Apostle’s resting place. Constructed by Justinian I, the basilica had 15 towers made with stones from Rome. Little is known of its origins, other than the structure started as a simple mausoleum built on top of St John’s tomb.
St John lived in Ephesus on his arrival from Jerusalem, and exiled to latter day Patmos. John wrote the Book of Revelations but when pardoned by Emperor Nerva, he returned and remained there until his death. However, legend has it that when the emperor Constantine opened the crypt, no body was found, making his remains, the only one of the Apostles to have never been discovered.
Entrance to the basilica (12TL) also includes entrance to the castle. The grand fortress towers over the town of Selcuk and is widely regarded as one that has been superimposed on itself many times over the centuries. The building as seen these days displays relics and architecture styles of Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman eras.
At the far end of town, the Temple of Artemis. Unbelievable, though true, the 127 column Temple of Artemis is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Now represented by a single stack of recovered artefacts standing alone in a marshy field. It is so abandoned and unloved, it is sad. Given its ‘wonder’ we did expect a little more just purely out of respect for its history. At very least have decent information board but nada. Non the less, as we walked around the field of where one of the greatest temples in history once stood, it did send shivers down my spine.
Surely That’s Not 1 of the 7 Wonders of Ancient Wonder?
Its early November, the village is deserted from the passing tourist though the legacy of the summer lies around. Discarded Efes bottles and a handful of tourist shops offering ‘huge’ discount in an attempt to shift their stock. Beside a modern war structure, a group of men are squatting down. One of spits and the others follow, I chuckle, it reminds me of Mac n Tosh having a pickling contest.
The tea shop front is crowded with the young at heart club and everyone is enjoying cups of tea and a good old game of Turkish OK ( bit like dominos). An old chap drops his stick, so Craig rushes over to lend a hand. Initially the man looks perplexed but when he realises Craig is helping, he is over the moon. A firm handshake and a nod says it all. Meanwhile the local cafe is preparing tonight evening dinner. The head chef sits cross legged stirring rice and meat in a pan the size of a small pond.
With an hour or so before the sun goes down we decided to have a zip over to Virgin Marys House. Entrance fee is 25tl plus 10tl for parking. The shrine of Meryem Ana Evi is the goal of many pilgrimages. According to tradition, Mary was brought to Ephesus by the Apostle John after the resurrection of Christ and lived out her days there. Archaeologists who have examined the building believe most of the building dates from the 6th or 7th century. But its foundations are much older and may well date from the 1st century AD, the time of Mary.
It was discovered in 1812 by a German nun, Sister Anne Emmerich, who never travelled away from her home. Disabled and confined to bed, she awoke in a trance with the stigmata and visions of the Virgin Mary and Apostle John traveling from Jerusalem to Ephesus. The German nun went on to say that the Virgin Mary died at the age of 64 and was buried in a cave near her house. When her coffin was opened soon after, however, the coffin and burial shroud were empty. The house was then turned into a chapel.
Years after her vision, a French clergyman read her account and travelled to Ephesus to find the House of the Virgin. He found a house matching the nun’s description and sent word to the bishops of Paris and Rome, but didn’t receive much of a response. In 1891, two priests and two Catholic officials set out to Ephesus to see the house. They found a small chapel in ruins with a damaged statue of the Virgin. They returned to Izmir with their report, and more priests and specialists were sent out to the site. Since 1892 the House of the Virgin has been a Catholic pilgrimage site.
When you group the story of nun and the House of the Virgin Mary all together plus the link with John the Baptist is quite fascinating. But, if you just turn up you will probably be extremely disappointed – it literally is a tiny house
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