Welcome! 😃💙 This is my Down by the Sea Blanket – a 6 week crochet along I hosted here on my website from November – December 2022. All the original blog posts and pattern instalments remain. But the full printer friendly pattern is now available to purchase in my Ravelry and Etsy stores:
ETSY:
RAVELRY:
ORIGINAL BLOG POST: This is Week 1 of my ‘Down by the Sea’ blanket design which I’m hosting as a 6 part crochet-along (CAL) over the next 6 weeks! Oh I’m so excited to share this blanket with you all…
All the introductory information with everything you need to know before we begin can be found here:
And here I chat to you from Brighton Beach (as well as Bournemouth) to welcome you all as we begin our crochet along journey together… enjoy!
Week 1 – Beachside Carousels and Bandstands!
In Week 1 we celebrate beachside carousels, big wheels or a circus that’s come to town… plus bandstands down by the sea! I was feeling really inspired by these seaside scenes…
We start at the centre of our blanket and the fun two coloured circle which we’ll be crocheting using the technique of Tunisian Crochet is just perfect to sum up that fun carousel vibe!! I’ve done a full video tutorial for these so don’t worry if you’ve not tried Tunisian Crochet before. The link to the tutorial is further down… I think they also make great coasters. How about candy cane colours?! 😄
I just love the crocheted carousel centre to our blankets and on Brighton seafront there’s a traditional carousel which has become quite an icon – the ‘Golden Gallopers’ carousel!
It’s such a popular seafront attraction, whatever the weather, and it always makes me smile when I see it go round! 😍
And on Bournemouth seafront there’s a huge ‘big wheel’, the ‘Observation Wheel’!
My daughter and I loved going up and around recently when we visited Bournemouth and if you watched my welcome video you’ll have seen that we were treated to rainbows whilst we were at the top!🌈🌈
Both the carousel and observation wheel provide a little fun as we head down to the sea and both were the perfect inspiration for the centre of our blankets!
Or maybe you’ll see a circus pop up down by the sea… this one comes every year near to where I live and the sea provides such a wonderful backdrop behind the Big Top Tent!
And then we move on to discover what else is down by the sea…
How about a bandstand?! 😄
The next rounds in Week 1 are inspired by the beautiful bandstand down on nearby Brighton seafront and is described by the city council as:
“Beautiful and unique, The Bandstand is located on Brighton’s vibrant seafront. It was first opened in 1884, it was restored to its original condition and reopened in 2009. Designed by Phillip Lockwood a Brighton Borough Surveyor, The Bandstand is considered to be one of the finest examples of a Victorian bandstand still surviving in England today.”
Isn’t it beautiful?! I loved using this beautiful bandstand as inspiration for the rounds that go around our central carousel. It’s an 8 sided octagonal shaped bandstand so I designed an octagon to go around our central circle – not quite as intricate as the Victorian Bandstand but a definite nod to bandstands down by the sea! 😄
Bournemouth has a bandstand too, in the Lower Gardens which lead down to the sea… I think it would be lovely to watch some live music being played on these bandstands! 🎶
So I think it’s time to get started – let’s get crocheting and I hope you enjoy every stitch! 😄
Yarn Packs are still available from the Knitting Network.
Brighton Beach: www.theknittingnetwork.co.uk-down-by-the-sea-blanket-colour-pack-brighton-beach
Bournemouth Beach:
There’s a printer friendly PDF pattern available to purchase on my Ravelry in both UK and US crochet terms.
Pattern on Ravelry:
You only pay once and each week the next instalment will be added to the pattern which you will have full access to. At the end of the 6 weeks you’ll have the full pattern to keep. It’s a lovely way to support my work… thank you!
Free pattern below…
The written pattern, with lots of photos and all the links to YouTube tutorials for this week, is also available for free below in UK crochet terms. At the very end of this blog post I’ve provided the pattern in US terms too.
But before we get started, here are some crochet-along (CAL) tips to really help you get the most out of the experience…
CAL Tips!
- Enjoy it and remember it’s not a race! It’s wonderful that everyone is crocheting the same pattern at around the same time but don’t worry if you fall behind. Go at a pace that suits you and if you don’t finish a week in time then it really doesn’t matter. The pattern will continue to be available long after the CAL is finished so don’t put pressure on yourself. And if you’re speedy and finished before the end of the week then feel free to take on another project or maybe crochet a second blanket!
- Embrace the CAL community. There will be lots of people from all over the world crocheting this blanket at the same time. So do share your progress photos, ask questions (there’s no such thing as a silly question) and encourage each other. The Facebook Group ‘Coastal Crochet’ is a great place to get to know each other or on Instagram you can share using the hashtags #downbytheseablanket and #coastalcrochetcal
- Don’t struggle on your own. The beauty of a CAL is that you know there are lots of people crocheting this blanket at the same time as you. There will be a vast array of experience with some people who have crocheted for years and others just starting out. Please do ask questions and look closely at the step-by-step photos. Don’t over think the pattern. Read it slowly and do exactly what it says. If it still doesn’t make sense to you, then do ask and someone will help! Crocheter’s are a friendly bunch…
- Spread the word! Crochet really does make the world a better place. Aren’t we lucky to be able to make such beautiful things with just one hook and a piece of yarn. Be proud of the art you’ve created with your hooks. Tell your family, your friends, your neighbours and anyone who will listen! And maybe you’ll inspire the next new crocheter who can crochet along with us next time…
Here goes… 😄
Pattern Notes
The blanket is made using a combination of crochet techniques. The pattern starts with a central circle which is crocheted using Tunisian Crochet. Traditional crochet stitches are then crocheted around this circle. The full written pattern is below.
Here’s a YouTube video tutorial which I’ve recorded for the central carousel…
Abbreviations
It is important to note that this version uses UK Crochet Terms. A pattern in US terms is also available.
blo: back loop only
BPtr: Back Post treble (see below)
BPtr3tog: Back Post treble three stitches together (see below)
ch: chain
ch-sp(s): chain space(s)
dc: double crochet
dtr: double treble
FPdtr: Front Post double treble (see below) FPquadtr: Front Post quadruple treble (see below)
FPtr: Front Post treble (see below)
FPtrtr: Front Post triple treble (see below)
FPtrtr2tog: Front Post triple treble two stitches together (see below)
htr: half treble
mm: millimetres
Popcorn: (see below)
RS: right side
ss: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
tr: treble
tr2tog: treble 2 stitches together
trtr: triple treble
WS: wrong side
yoh: yarn over hook
BPtr: Back Post treble: complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again.
BPtr3tog: Back Post treble three stitches together: *complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 2 sts, (there should now be 4 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.
FPdtr: Front Post double treble: complete a double treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 2 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.
FPquadtr: Front Post quadruple treble: complete a quadruple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 4 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, yoh, pull though to front (there should now be 6 loops on the hook), (yoh, pull through 2 loops on hook) until only 1 loop remains.
FPtr: Front Post treble: complete a treble st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.
FPtrtr: Front Post triple treble: complete a triple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 3 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, yoh, pull though to front (there should now be 5 loops on the hook), (yoh, pull through 2 loops on hook) until only 1 loop remains.
FPtrtr2tog: Front Post triple treble two stitches together: *start a triple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 3 times) but insert hook around the stem of the first st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, stop at last yoh** when there are only 2 loops left on hook, repeat from * around stem of next st ending at ** (there should now be 3 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.
Popcorn: 5tr in the next st, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook from front to back in top of first tr of 5-tr group, pick up dropped loop and pull through the first tr.
Reverse Double Crochet (Crab Stitch): This is simply double crochet stitches worked backwards along the stitches, from left to right instead of from right to left (this will be reversed if you are left-handed). Simply work a double crochet stitch as normal but go backwards along the round. Pay attention to do a double crochet stitch and not a slip stitch.
Tunisian Crochet Pattern Notes
The central circle is made using the technique of Tunisian Crochet.
- Each Row of Tunisian Crochet is made up of two stages. The Forward Pass and Return Pass. You do not turn the work at all, so you will be working with the front (right side) of the work facing you at all times and it looks very different to the rear of the work.
- Tunisian crochet usually requires a special long hook but the circle we will be crocheting uses an ordinary standard crochet hook because there are only a maximum 10 stitches / loops on the hook at a time.
- Tunisian crochet produces a dense fabric so it is recommended to go up a whole hook size to what you would usually use for the yarn.
- Each loop on the hook represents 1 stitch.
- The stitch used in the circle is Tunisian Simple Stitch.
To Work
Carousel
The central carousel circle is made using the technique of Tunisian Crochet. An ordinary crochet hook can be used because there will only be a maximum of 10 loops on the hook. Use the biggest hook size for this section because Tunisian Crochet produces a dense fabric.
Using Yarn A and a 5.5mm hook make 4ch, ss to first ch to join into a ring (or make a magic circle).
Round 1 (RS) 1ch (does not count as st), 6dc into the ring, ss to first dc to join. [6 sts]
The rest of the circle is now made in short rows of Tunisian Crochet to create 12 segments.
Segment 1
Make 9ch
Row 1 Forward Pass: Insert hook under top strand of second ch from hook, yoh and pull up a loop leaving loop on hook, * insert hook into next ch, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * in each of next 6 ch (there should now be 9 loops on the hook), insert hook into first dc at base of 9 ch on central circle made in Round 1, pull up a loop. [10 loops]
Complete Return Pass as follows: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 2 Forward Pass: (The loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical strand on the very edge of work here and throughout), * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 6 times more leaving the rest of the vertical strands of the row unworked. [8 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 3 Forward Pass: * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 4 times more leaving the rest of the vertical strands of the row unworked. [6 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 4 Forward Pass: * insert hook behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 2 times more leaving the rest of the vertical strands of the row unworked. [4 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 5 Forward Pass: * insert hook behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook. [2 loops]
Return Pass: Pull through Yarn B for the Return Pass so colour is changed (do not fasten off Yarn A, this will be carried along the side and re-joined for Segment 3)
Segment 2
Pay attention in Row 1 to which vertical strands to insert your hook behind when picking up loops from the different coloured segment below.
Row 1 Forward Pass: * insert hook behind second vertical strand in Row 4, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, insert hook behind next vertical strand in Row 4, yoh and pull up a loop, insert hook behind each of next 2 vertical strands in Row 3 and pull up loops, insert hook behind each of next 2 vertical strands in Row 2 and pull up loops, insert hook behind each of next 2 vertical strands in Row 1 and pull up loops, insert hook into first dc on central circle made in Round 1 (same stitch as in Segment 1), pull up a loop. [10 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Repeat Rows 2 – 5 as in Segment 1 re-joining with Yarn A at end of Row 5, (do not fasten off Yarn B, this will be carried along the side and re-joined for Segment 3)
Segments 3 – 12
Each segment is made in the same way as Segment 2. There are 12 in total. Alternate between Yarn A and Yarn B. On segments 3 and 4 insert hook into 2nd dc stitch in central circle, on segments 5 and 6 insert hook into 3rd dc stitch in central circle, on segments 7 and 8 insert hook into 4th dc stitch in central circle, on segments 9 and 10 insert hook into 5th dc stitch in central circle, on segments 11 and 12 insert hook into 6th dc stitch in central circle.
At end of segment 12 do not change colour, fasten off leaving a tail of yarn long enough to sew closed the seam using a mattress stitch join.
The Bandstand
An edge will now be crocheted around the circle. Change back to a 4.5mm hook (or your smallest hook you’re using) and join Yarn A into any st at outer edge of circle. In Round 1 crochet around the loose strands of yarn between the segments in the circle to cover them. The next rounds are made with the RS facing at all times unless otherwise indicated.
Round 1 (RS) 2ch (counts as first htr), 1htr in same st, 1htr in each of next 14 sts, (2htr in next st, 1htr in each of next 14 sts) three times, ss to top of first 2 ch, fasten off. [64 sts]
Here’s the video tutorial to accompany Rounds 2 – 12 – our bandstand rounds…
Half Treble stitches are unique in that they have 3 loops/strands at the top of the stitch. Make sure that in Round 2 you are inserting your hook into the back 2 loops only. This ensures that one loop remains to the front of the work.
Round 2 Join Yarn C into any st, 3ch (counts as first tr here and throughout), (3tr, 2ch, 4tr) in same st, miss 2 sts, 1ss in next st, 2ch, miss 1 st, 1ss in next st, miss 2 sts, *(4tr, 2ch, 4tr) in next st, miss 2 sts, 1ss in next st, 2ch, miss 1 st, 1ss in next st, miss 2 sts, repeat from * six times more, ss to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [8 groups of 8 tr and 2 ch with 8 x 2-ch-sps in-between]
Round 3 Join Yarn D into any 2-ch-sp in-between the slip stitches, 3ch, 2tr in same place, *miss next ss, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, 1htr in next st, 1dc in next st, 2ch, miss 2-ch-sp, 1dc in next st, 1htr in next st, 1tr in each of next 2 sts, miss next ss**, 3tr in next 2-ch-sp, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, ss to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [88 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 4 Join Yarn C into any 2-ch-sp in Round 2 (ensure hook also goes under the 2 ch from Round 3 to encase it and neaten – do this at each 2-ch-sp in this round), 5ch (counts as 1 tr and 2 ch), 1tr in same place, 1tr in each of next 11 sts, *(1tr, 2ch, 1tr) in next 2-ch-sp in Round 2, 1tr in each of next 11 sts, repeat from * six times, ss to to 3rd ch of beginning 5 ch, fasten off. [104 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 5 Join Yarn D into first st to left of any 2-ch-sp, 3ch, 4tr in same st, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook from front to back in top of first 3 ch, pick up dropped loop and pull through (beginning popcorn made – subsequent popcorns are made with 5 tr), *1tr in each of next 11 sts, 1 popcorn in next st, 2ch, miss 2-ch-sp**, 1 popcorn in next st, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, ss to top of first popcorn, fasten off. [88 sts plus 16 popcorns and 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 6 (RS) Join Yarn C into any 2-ch-sp in Round 4 (ensure hook also goes under the 2 ch from Round 5 to encase it and neaten – do this at each 2-ch-sp in this round), 4ch (counts as first dtr), 2dtr in same place, *1tr in each of next 13 sts (pay attention to crochet into the tops of the popcorns which count as a st)**, 3dtr in next 2-ch-sp in Round 4, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, ss to top of first 4 ch, do not fasten off, turn work so the WS is facing. [128 sts]
The next round is made with the WS facing. This helps to keep the octagon shape aligned.
Round 7 (WS) 2ch (counts as first htr), 1htr in each of next 14 sts, 2ch, miss next st, (1htr in each of next 15 sts, 2ch, miss next st) seven times, ss to top of first 2 ch, fasten off, turn. [120 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
The next round is made with the RS facing.
Round 8 (RS) Join Yarn D into first st to left of any 2-ch-sp inserting hook into just the one very back loop only, 3ch, 1tr in blo of same st, *1tr in blo of each of next 13 sts, 2tr in blo of next st, 2ch, miss 2-ch-sp**, 2tr in blo of next st, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, ss to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [136 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 9 (RS) Join Yarn C into first st to left of any 2-ch-sp, 3ch, 1tr in each of next 16 sts, miss next 2-ch-sp instead working 2FPquadtr around the central missed dtr directly below in Round 6, *1tr in each of next 17 sts, miss next 2-ch-sp instead working 2FPquadtr around the central missed dtr directly below in Round 6, repeat from * six times, ss to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [152 sts]
A square will now be created around the octagon.
Round 10 (RS) Join Yarn D into left st of any of the 2 raised sts, 1ch (counts as first dc – you may want to put a stitch marker in this ch so it is easier to recognise as a stitch when crocheting back into it at end of round), 1dc in each of next 19 sts, *miss 1 st, 3tr in next st, miss 2 sts, 3dtr in next st, miss 2 sts, 4trtr in next st, 2ch, miss 1 st, 4trtr in next st, miss 2 sts, 3dtr in next st, miss 2 sts, 3tr in next st, miss 1 st**, 1dc in each of next 21 sts, repeat from * three timesending final repeat at **, 1dc in final st, ss to first 1 ch, do not fasten off, turn. [41 sts on each side plus 4 corner 2-ch-sps]
The next round is made with the WS facing.
Round 11 (WS) 1ch (counts as first dc), 1dc in next st, *miss 3 sts, 3tr into space before next 3-dtr group, miss 3 sts, 3dtr into space before next 4-trtr group, miss 4 sts, (4trtr, 2ch, 4trtr) all in next corner 2-ch-sp, miss 4 sts, 3dtr into space before next 3-dtr group, miss 3 sts, 3tr into space before next 3-tr group, miss 3 sts**, 1dc in each of next 21 sts, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, 1dc in each of next 19 sts, ss to first 1 ch, do not fasten off, turn. [41 sts on each side plus 4 corner 2-ch-sps]
The next round is made with the RS facing.
Round 12 (RS) 3ch, *1tr in each st to end of side, (2tr, 2ch 2tr) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times, 1tr in each st to end, ss to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [45 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]
At the end of Round 12 the whole central square measures approximately 32 cm x 32 cm (12.5in x 12.5in) if you are matching my tenson.
And there you go… Week 1 is complete! Don’t forget to share your progress on Instagram and Facebook – it’s always so lovely to see what everyone is up to. I absolutely loved designing and crocheting Week 1 and hope you enjoyed it too!
Happy Crocheting Everyone! 😄❤️
Pattern in US Terms
Abbreviations
It is important to note that this version uses US Crochet Terms. A pattern in UK terms is also available above.
blo: back loop only
BPdc: Back Post double crochet (see below)
BPdc3tog: Back Post double crochet three stitches together (see below)
ch: chain
ch-sp(s): chain space(s)
dc: double crochet
dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together
dtr: double treble
FPdc: Front Post double crochet (see below)
FPdtr: Front Post double treble (see below) FPdtr2tog: Front Post double treble two stitches together (see below)
FPtr: Front Post treble (see below)
FPtrtr: Front Post triple treble (see below)
hdc: half double crochet
mm: millimetres
Popcorn: (see below)
RS: right side
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
tr: treble
WS: wrong side
yoh: yarn over hook
BPdc: Back Post double crochet: complete a double crochet st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again.
BPdc3tog: Back Post double crochet three stitches together: *complete a double crochet st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the back to the front and then round to the back again, stop at last yoh when there are only 2 loops left, repeat from * around stem of each of next 2 sts, (there should now be 4 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.
FPdc: Front Post double crochet: complete a double crochet st as normal but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.
FPdtr: Front Post double treble: complete a double treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 3 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, yoh, pull though to front (there should now be 5 loops on the hook), (yoh, pull through 2 loops on hook) until only 1 loop remains.
FPdtr2tog: Front Post double treble two stitches together: *start a double treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 3 times) but insert hook around the stem of the first st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, stop at last yoh** when there are only 2 loops left on hook, repeat from * around stem of next st ending at ** (there should now be 3 loops left on the hook), yoh and pull through all the loops on hook.
FPtr: Front Post treble: complete a treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 2 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again.
FPtrtr: Front Post triple treble: complete a triple treble st as normal (the stitch starts by wrapping yarn around hook 4 times) but insert hook around the stem of the st inserting hook from right to left going from the front to the back and then round to the front again, yoh, pull though to front (there should now be 6 loops on the hook), (yoh, pull through 2 loops on hook) until only 1 loop remains.
Popcorn: 5dc in the next st, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook from front to back in top of first dc of 5-dc group, pick up dropped loop and pull through the first dc.
Reverse Single Crochet (Crab Stitch): This is simply single crochet stitches worked backwards along the stitches, from left to right instead of from right to left (this will be reversed if you are left-handed). Simply work a single crochet stitch as normal but go backwards along the round. Pay attention to do a single crochet stitch and not a slip stitch.
Tunisian Crochet Pattern Notes
The central circle is made using the technique of Tunisian Crochet.
- Each Row of Tunisian Crochet is made up of two stages. The Forward Pass and Return Pass. You do not turn the work at all, so you will be working with the front (right side) of the work facing you at all times and it looks very different to the rear of the work.
- Tunisian crochet usually requires a special long hook but the circle we will be crocheting uses an ordinary standard crochet hook because there are only a maximum 10 stitches / loops on the hook at a time.
- Tunisian crochet produces a dense fabric so it is recommended to go up a whole hook size to what you would usually use for the yarn.
- Each loop on the hook represents 1 stitch.
- The stitch used in the circle is Tunisian Simple Stitch.
To Work
Week 1 – Beachside Carousels and Bandstands!
We start at the centre of our blanket and these first rounds are inspired by beachside carousels, a big wheel or a circus, and bandstands by the beach!
On Brighton seafront there’s a traditional carousel. It’s become quite an icon – the ‘Golden Gallopers’ carousel. It’s such a popular seafront attraction – whatever the weather! And on Bournemouth Beach there’s an Observation Wheel. Or maybe you’ll see a circus pop up down by the sea…
Carousel
The central carousel circle is made using the technique of Tunisian Crochet. An ordinary crochet hook can be used because there will only be a maximum of 10 loops on the hook. Use the biggest hook size for this section because Tunisian Crochet produces a dense fabric.
Using Yarn A and a 5.5mm hook make 4ch, sl st to first ch to join into a ring (or make a magic circle).
Round 1 (RS) 1ch (does not count as st), 6sc into the ring, sl st to first sc to join. [6 sts]
The rest of the circle is now made in short rows of Tunisian Crochet to create 12 segments.
Segment 1
Make 9ch
Row 1 Forward Pass: Insert hook under top strand of second ch from hook, yoh and pull up a loop leaving loop on hook, * insert hook into next ch, yoh and pull up a loop, repeat from * in each of next 6 ch (there should now be 9 loops on the hook), insert hook into first sc at base of 9 ch on central circle made in Round 1, pull up a loop. [10 loops]
Complete Return Pass as follows: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 2 Forward Pass: (The loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical strand on the very edge of work here and throughout), * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 6 times more leaving the rest of the vertical strands of the row unworked. [8 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 3 Forward Pass: * insert hook from side to side behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 4 times more leaving the rest of the vertical strands of the row unworked. [6 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 4 Forward Pass: * insert hook behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, repeat from * 2 times more leaving the rest of the vertical strands of the row unworked. [4 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Row 5 Forward Pass: * insert hook behind next vertical strand, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook. [2 loops]
Return Pass: Pull through Yarn B for the Return Pass so colour is changed (do not fasten off Yarn A, this will be carried along the side and re-joined for Segment 3)
Segment 2
Pay attention in Row 1 to which vertical strands to insert your hook behind when picking up loops from the different coloured segment below.
Row 1 Forward Pass: * insert hook behind second vertical strand in Row 4, yoh and pull up a loop, leave loop on hook, insert hook behind next vertical strand in Row 4, yoh and pull up a loop, insert hook behind each of next 2 vertical strands in Row 3 and pull up loops, insert hook behind each of next 2 vertical strands in Row 2 and pull up loops, insert hook behind each of next 2 vertical strands in Row 1 and pull up loops, insert hook into first sc on central circle made in Round 1 (same stitch as in Segment 1), pull up a loop. [10 loops]
Return Pass: *yoh and pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Repeat Rows 2 – 5 as in Segment 1 re-joining with Yarn A at end of Row 5, (do not fasten off Yarn B, this will be carried along the side and re-joined for Segment 3)
Segments 3 – 12
Each segment is made in the same way as Segment 2. There are 12 in total. Alternate between Yarn A and Yarn B. On segments 3 and 4 insert hook into 2nd sc stitch in central circle, on segments 5 and 6 insert hook into 3rd sc stitch in central circle, on segments 7 and 8 insert hook into 4th sc stitch in central circle, on segments 9 and 10 insert hook into 5th sc stitch in central circle, on segments 11 and 12 insert hook into 6th sc stitch in central circle.
At end of segment 12 do not change colour, fasten off leaving a tail of yarn long enough to sew closed the seam using a mattress stitch join.
Bandstand
An edge will now be crocheted around the circle. Change back to a 4.5mm hook and join Yarn A into any st at outer edge of circle. In Round 1 crochet around the loose strands of yarn between the segments in the circle to cover them. The next rounds are made with the RS facing at all times unless otherwise indicated.
Round 1 (RS) 2ch (counts as first hdc), 1hdc in same st, 1hdc in each of next 14 sts, (2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next 14 sts) three times, sl st to top of first 2 ch, fasten off. [64 sts]
Half Double Crochet stitches are unique in that they have 3 loops/strands at the top of the stitch. Make sure that in Round 2 you are inserting your hook into the back 2 loops only. This ensures that one loop remains to the front of the work.
Round 2 Join Yarn C into any st, 3ch (counts as first dc here and throughout), (3dc, 2ch, 4dc) in same st, skip 2 sts, 1sl st in next st, 2ch, skip 1 st, 1sl st in next st, skip 2 sts, *(4dc, 2ch, 4dc) in next st, skip 2 sts, 1sl st in next st, 2ch, skip 1 st, 1sl st in next st, skip 2 sts, repeat from * six times more, sl st to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [8 groups of 8 dc and 2 ch with 8 x 2-ch-sps in-between]
Round 3 Join Yarn D into any 2-ch-sp in-between the slip stitches, 3ch, 2dc in same place, *skip next sl st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, 1hdc in next st, 1sc in next st, 2ch, skip 2-ch-sp, 1sc in next st, 1hdc in next st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, skip next sl st**, 3dc in next 2-ch-sp, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, sl st to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [88 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 4 Join Yarn C into any 2-ch-sp in Round 2 (ensure hook also goes under the 2 ch from Round 3 to encase it and neaten – do this at each 2-ch-sp in this round), 5ch (counts as 1 dc and 2 ch), 1dc in same place, 1dc in each of next 11 sts, *(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next 2-ch-sp in Round 2, 1dc in each of next 11 sts, repeat from * six times, sl st to to 3rd ch of beginning 5 ch, fasten off. [104 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 5 Join Yarn D into first st to left of any 2-ch-sp, 3ch, 4dc in same st, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook from front to back in top of first 3 ch, pick up dropped loop and pull through (beginning popcorn made – subsequent popcorns are made with 5 dc), *1dc in each of next 11 sts, 1 popcorn in next st, 2ch, skip 2-ch-sp**, 1 popcorn in next st, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, sl st to top of first popcorn, fasten off. [88 sts plus 16 popcorns and 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 6 (RS) Join Yarn C into any 2-ch-sp in Round 4 (ensure hook also goes under the 2 ch from Round 5 to encase it and neaten – do this at each 2-ch-sp in this round), 4ch (counts as first tr), 2tr in same place, *1dc in each of next 13 sts (pay attention to crochet into the tops of the popcorns which count as a st)**, 3tr in next 2-ch-sp in Round 4, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, sl st to top of first 4 ch, do not fasten off, turn work so the WS is facing. [128 sts]
The next round is made with the WS facing. This helps to keep the octagon shape aligned.
Round 7 (WS) 2ch (counts as first hdc), 1hdc in each of next 14 sts, 2ch, skip next st, (1hdc in each of next 15 sts, 2ch, skip next st) seven times, sl st to top of first 2 ch, fasten off, turn. [120 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
The next round is made with the RS facing.
Round 8 (RS) Join Yarn D into first st to left of any 2-ch-sp inserting hook into just the one very back loop only, 3ch, 1dc in blo of same st, *1dc in blo of each of next 13 sts, 2dc in blo of next st, 2ch, skip 2-ch-sp**, 2dc in blo of next st, repeat from * seven times ending final repeat at **, sl st to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [136 sts plus 8 x 2-ch-sps]
Round 9 (RS) Join Yarn C into first st to left of any 2-ch-sp, 3ch, 1dc in each of next 16 sts, skip next 2-ch-sp instead working 2FPtrtr around the central missed tr directly below in Round 6, *1dc in each of next 17 sts, skip next 2-ch-sp instead working 2FPtrtr around the central missed tr directly below in Round 6, repeat from * six times, sl st to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [152 sts]
A square will now be created around the octagon.
Round 10 (RS) Join Yarn D into left st of any of the 2 raised sts, 1ch (counts as first sc – you may want to put a stitch marker in this ch so it is easier to recognise as a stitch when crocheting back into it at end of round), 1sc in each of next 19 sts, *skip 1 st, 3dc in next st, skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st, skip 2 sts, 4dtr in next st, 2ch, skip 1 st, 4dtr in next st, skip 2 sts, 3tr in next st, skip 2 sts, 3dc in next st, skip 1 st**, 1sc in each of next 21 sts, repeat from * three timesending final repeat at **, 1sc in final st, sl st to first 1 ch, do not fasten off, turn. [41 sts on each side plus 4 corner 2-ch-sps]
The next round is made with the WS facing.
Round 11 (WS) 1ch (counts as first sc), 1sc in next st, *skip 3 sts, 3dc into space before next 3-tr group, skip 3 sts, 3tr into space before next 4-dtr group, skip 4 sts, (4dtr, 2ch, 4dtr) all in next corner 2-ch-sp, skip 4 sts, 3tr into space before next 3-tr group, skip 3 sts, 3dc into space before next 3-dc group, skip 3 sts**, 1sc in each of next 21 sts, repeat from * three times ending final repeat at **, 1sc in each of next 19 sts, sl st to first 1 ch, do not fasten off, turn. [41 sts on each side plus 4 corner 2-ch-sps]
The next round is made with the RS facing.
Round 12 (RS) 3ch, *1dc in each st to end of side, (2dc, 2ch 2dc) in corner ch-sp, repeat from * three times, 1dc in each st to end, sl st to top of first 3 ch, fasten off. [45 sts on each side with 4 x corner 2-ch-sps]
At the end of Round 12 the whole central square measures approximately 32 cm x 32 cm (12.5in x 12.5in) if you are matching my tenson.
Source link